So much of what I have to do in a restaurant kitchen goes above and beyond the necessity of an ordinary kitchen. This fact often becomes a blanket statement that allows for the run-of-the-mill foodie to disregard something I might make as being above their comprehension or ability. Quite the opposite.
So much of cooking is utilization of your surroundings, here, in America and the West as a whole, have so much available in our surroundings. With that said I can make an oven for pizza with a single burner, a pot, and a sheet pan. Not the best pizza I've ever made (it was compared to Pizza Hut...I died a bit inside), but I made it work. The idea of utilization is the best aspect of cooking. Nutrition, experimentation, satiation are all nice aspects of cooking, but they are end results; utilization is the process that one gets to the end result.
The reason I am harping on utilization so much is that I see such a lack of utilization in this country. We are inundated with the best of the best products to the point that we forget where one gets sense of accomplishment and love and purpose and, of course, utilization. I am not the best teacher of cooking, but I can show anyone how to prepare a simple dinner that will astound even the most indentured of culinary minds; the catch being an overwhelming choice of simply prepared, prepackaged, pre-butchered, precooked food items. I think Thomas Keller (proprietor of two of the best restaurants in the world, Per Se and The French Laundry, along with many other great restaurants) put it best when he said: "It's easy to cook a filet mignon, or to sauté a piece of trout, serve it with browned butter à la meunière, and call yourself a chef. But that's not real cooking. That's heating. Preparing tripe [offal], however, is a transcendental act."
The term offal is a blanket word used to encompass the entirety of parts of animals we, as Westerners, usually throw out. It goes beyond organs to also take into account cheeks, tongues, brains, feet and tails.
Meat does not come in a Styrofoam container, nicely dressed in plastic wrap, and all dolled up for your eyes to ogle at. Meat is meat, a fact many Americans have disconnected from and allowed veils to placed between them and the origins of their food products as a whole - not just meat.
Before the advent of commercialization of food, before what I even understand how a kitchen should operate, before any of that the best cooks were peasants. The rich had the filets, the rib eyes, the chicken breasts, fresh fish, the butter, the cream, the truffles, the game, they had the best of the best, while the peasants were given what was left over: the feet, the tongues, the organs, the tails; but damned be all if they were not going to make those items delicious. Those former items take very little time - a quick sear, cook it to appropriate temperatures, and serve it, easy - in doing so they take very little care and love to properly prepare it. Those latter items take a lot of time to cook, many tricks of the trade, a lot of patience, a lot of love to create them (in case you're wondering how much time and patience Thomas Keller's recipe for beef tongue takes four weeks to cure before cooking it for twenty four hours - that's patience...and yeah, it is definitely worth every second.)
This also takes into account utilization. Slaves in the South were given the intestines of the pigs after their masters were done with the pork chops. Now we have chitlins (a good recipe here) one of my favorite things in the world. Utilization also taps into the Native American principle of using every piece of the animal they killed: the skin as tepees, bones as utensils and weapons, fur as clothing and so on. The last piece of information is, for me, the most important as it represents something that resonates with me. I have no problem with vegetarians, but whenever we at the restaurant get someone who is vegetarian its hard to switch gears and try to accommodate (we're just asking for a little heads up that's all!). Most of the time when I ask as to why a person is a vegetarian they say the same thing: "We treat animals so poorly here." Which is wholly true, partly because we throw away so much of the animal so, at the end, we need quantity over quality. Every cow can only give us one tenderloin for your beloved filet mignon (which, honestly, is my least favorite cut, give me short ribs any day!), there are only two breasts on each chicken, each pig can only give 26 bone-in pork chops that are too small to satisfy any American.
When a chicken is killed it can weigh anywhere from 6 to 12 pounds or even higher. Let's pick the round number of 10, a chicken is killed and it weighs 10 pounds. Remove the head, feathers, and feet; next take out organs and chuck those away as well; separate the breast from the rib cage, separate the legs and thighs as well, and there really is no reason to keep the bones so they'll be garbage too. What's left? Two breasts, two thighs, two legs weighing (at most) 5 pounds. Name any industry that plays middle man from beginning raw product to end product. Got a name? Good. Those in that business would gawp at the prospect at losing fifty percent of their product just because that's just how things work. You won't stay in business for long. (And yes, there are great recipes for every part of those 'garbage' parts of the chicken even the cockscomb) Not only from a humane perspective but from an economic perspective does using every part of the animal makes more sense.
This whole prose was not just a plea to try and experiment with utilization of an animal, but, also, a plea to cook at home for God's sake. I do recommend easing yourself into the offal world by finding a bistro in your area (any self respecting bistro will have some form or another of offal on their menu, try tongue or cheek to ease the transition even further), after that become great friends with your local neighborhood butcher (these days they need the friendship more now than ever) and get the freshest organs or tongue you can and give it a go. A word of warning: there is one thing that can disgust even the most avid offal eater and that is overcooked livers or kidneys. With that said I can only cover so many things in a single post so for more information please read over the book The River Cottage Meat Book. This book is one of the most important culinary books of the last two decades, many of the topics in his book I have touched on, but he will be able to go into great detail and provide AMAZING recipes for you to try at home. Also, a great chef by the name of Chris Cosentino has a blog devoted wholly to this matter.
Almost every run-of-the-mill restaurant will feature chicken breast, filet mignon, and pork chops on their menu and why shouldn't they? They're all popular and the restaurant can get money from it. But it is your job (I'm looking at you America) to change what is popular. Soon, I hope, I can get chicken livers and pigs' trotters on every menu - I know they'll be on mine.
Showing posts with label About Food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label About Food. Show all posts
Friday, November 5, 2010
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
It Is Just Food
“It is just food.”
Those words will always echo solemnly in my head. Why, you might ask yourself, will such a simple phrase conjure up ill feeling?
Because it is more than “just food” to say that is to simply denote consumption as a means to gain nutrition; yes that plays a vital role, but that is a foundation to build on, not a period. Food at its base core, is more than just sustenance and a means to relieve the pangs of hunger. Like religion and culture it is a way in which people gather – the focal point for a meeting of persons and people. Though, unlike religion and culture, it excludes no one (except the anorexic).
Food is such a primary term for something that is so utterly magical when it is done correctly. The experience of a dozen or so friends and a pig roast is something that will remain in the catacombs of one’s head forever. Something like Thanksgiving has begun to have something of a negative moniker or air about it in the last few decades, but one needs to separate the anxieties of sufficing the needs and wants of overly ambivalent relatives to the goal at hand: your family, your friends, and all the people you care about are here, eating, and enjoying a good time before returning the drools that is life; that is what food is.
It is an escape. Though not necessarily parallel to drugs or alcohol, food is an act of escapism. In a world of way too much drama, tension, stress, and overall lack of civility we need acts that replicate nostalgia, calm, trying to get to a stasis in life.
It is an escape that is, more or less, healthy – if one ventures carelessly down its path then after years of abuse it will catch up to you. But food has been delineated into fitting a very concise box that has no openings or ways out. Food = a removal of the physical sensation of hunger. Something some people have a hard time dealing with, this, in my estimation, is a feudal attempt at subjugating consumption into something it is not.
Food’s primary goal is for nutritional satiation, but so often that aspect is over looked and ignored. We can see its abuse in every context, but, honestly, to focus too much on this abuse can be directly correlated to why there is a convoluted view on food. Food is food is food, if you try and achieve something from the word food by dubbing a Styrofoam, packing peanut “food” of course people will not be able to deter their prejudices from real food.
There is a lot of distance put between food and the consumer, but that is for another posting. It makes sense, though, because of this distance that people will not put importance on food, on its source, or how it was made – as long as it is in their supermarket at low prices and packaged correctly, few people would be hard pressed to have an issue with food. It is more than that though, when one reconnects with how something as simple as a sausage is made it is a revelation (one I have proudly done on many occasions). Putting together your own pasta dough is beautiful (my favorite recipe just click here). Making bread (BREAD!) for the first time (Jamie Oliver’s focaccia) was so exhilarating, seeing something taken for granted go from a pile of flour to a beautiful, savory, herb studded piece of bread was astounding.
Those moments – seeing a pile of ingredients turn into dinner – were the first memories I have of my family. At age 4 my parents allowed me to make mac’n’cheese, something that most parents would never allow their children to do at that age, I still remember the splash of the noodles into the salted water; the salt crystallization that occurred on the side of the pot; the ever mounting anticipation of something so simply delicious, something so synonymous with Americana, was waiting for me just 6-8 minutes away (depending on sea level); watching, emphatically, as the butter melted and the neon orange powder turned into the slick, unctuous, and cheesy mass that I was anticipating so.
Still, even with the passing of fifteen years, I can reminisce on the smells of a Taiwanese food stand as an onion pancake is divided and packaged for my dinner that night. Food is not a means to a nutritional end, it is much more impactful and important than that. As the continued food revolution moves forward people will be more apt to take care in their food, place more importance on what they do and do not eat, and, finally, realize the way food can unite.
Those words will always echo solemnly in my head. Why, you might ask yourself, will such a simple phrase conjure up ill feeling?
Because it is more than “just food” to say that is to simply denote consumption as a means to gain nutrition; yes that plays a vital role, but that is a foundation to build on, not a period. Food at its base core, is more than just sustenance and a means to relieve the pangs of hunger. Like religion and culture it is a way in which people gather – the focal point for a meeting of persons and people. Though, unlike religion and culture, it excludes no one (except the anorexic).
Food is such a primary term for something that is so utterly magical when it is done correctly. The experience of a dozen or so friends and a pig roast is something that will remain in the catacombs of one’s head forever. Something like Thanksgiving has begun to have something of a negative moniker or air about it in the last few decades, but one needs to separate the anxieties of sufficing the needs and wants of overly ambivalent relatives to the goal at hand: your family, your friends, and all the people you care about are here, eating, and enjoying a good time before returning the drools that is life; that is what food is.
It is an escape. Though not necessarily parallel to drugs or alcohol, food is an act of escapism. In a world of way too much drama, tension, stress, and overall lack of civility we need acts that replicate nostalgia, calm, trying to get to a stasis in life.
It is an escape that is, more or less, healthy – if one ventures carelessly down its path then after years of abuse it will catch up to you. But food has been delineated into fitting a very concise box that has no openings or ways out. Food = a removal of the physical sensation of hunger. Something some people have a hard time dealing with, this, in my estimation, is a feudal attempt at subjugating consumption into something it is not.
Food’s primary goal is for nutritional satiation, but so often that aspect is over looked and ignored. We can see its abuse in every context, but, honestly, to focus too much on this abuse can be directly correlated to why there is a convoluted view on food. Food is food is food, if you try and achieve something from the word food by dubbing a Styrofoam, packing peanut “food” of course people will not be able to deter their prejudices from real food.
There is a lot of distance put between food and the consumer, but that is for another posting. It makes sense, though, because of this distance that people will not put importance on food, on its source, or how it was made – as long as it is in their supermarket at low prices and packaged correctly, few people would be hard pressed to have an issue with food. It is more than that though, when one reconnects with how something as simple as a sausage is made it is a revelation (one I have proudly done on many occasions). Putting together your own pasta dough is beautiful (my favorite recipe just click here). Making bread (BREAD!) for the first time (Jamie Oliver’s focaccia) was so exhilarating, seeing something taken for granted go from a pile of flour to a beautiful, savory, herb studded piece of bread was astounding.
Those moments – seeing a pile of ingredients turn into dinner – were the first memories I have of my family. At age 4 my parents allowed me to make mac’n’cheese, something that most parents would never allow their children to do at that age, I still remember the splash of the noodles into the salted water; the salt crystallization that occurred on the side of the pot; the ever mounting anticipation of something so simply delicious, something so synonymous with Americana, was waiting for me just 6-8 minutes away (depending on sea level); watching, emphatically, as the butter melted and the neon orange powder turned into the slick, unctuous, and cheesy mass that I was anticipating so.
Still, even with the passing of fifteen years, I can reminisce on the smells of a Taiwanese food stand as an onion pancake is divided and packaged for my dinner that night. Food is not a means to a nutritional end, it is much more impactful and important than that. As the continued food revolution moves forward people will be more apt to take care in their food, place more importance on what they do and do not eat, and, finally, realize the way food can unite.
The Alinea Experience
When one enters a career where rankings come into play a competitive nature follows that ideal as well. When you want to be a great doctor you go to the best school and study under the best doctor; when you want to be a great painter you go to the best school and study under the best painter; when you want to be a lawyer you go to the best school and work at the best firm. The distinction is no different in the cooking realm.
I am a clear case of that: go to one of the premier schools and work at the best restaurant in the country; easy way to move up the ladder, quickly. Right?
I must admit that I did not want to go to school, rather go the route of being a stagiaire at many great restaurants, getting little to no pay, until one day having a great enough repertoire to work my way up in a great restaurant then open my own. Why did I think that? Well, that’s how the system is built, that is how it is done, and that is how it will always be done. Well, maybe.
After much convincing from my parents, I decided to go to Johnson & Wales University over the Culinary Institute of America (or the CIA) – the Yale versus Harvard of cooking schools. Johnson & Wales plays the role of Yale in this one: always great, but never the best and, therefore, getting pooped on from our bosses who probably went to the CIA. Many graduates of the CIA went the route of staging in places before becoming a great chef; I too wanted to follow that route – even if a small voice in my head said otherwise.
This last weekend I staged at Alinea, the best restaurant in this country, nay, continent, nay, hemisphere. Before going I had talked to a good friend of mine about his experiences at the French Laundry, the restaurant that was of the same status Alinea is now. He, after four months of being a kitchen bitch, despised it and, with all his talents, is on the ropes as to whether or not he wants to continue cooking. Though him and I approach food differently, we have very parallel ideals about our mentality approaching a kitchen and cooking as a whole. It boils down to, very simply, “Here’s a valium, now relax!”
In the weeks and months prior to going to Alinea I had begun to imagine my life in a kitchen as a rebuttal or a retort to the ways of how a kitchen should look like. Rather than spending countless hours picking herbs, juicing fruit, or dicing onions I would assemble a team of likeminded cooks and open a restaurant: a half dozen or so trustworthy, respectable cooks who could push each other, creatively, without an air of competitiveness. That last word is the word I was probably most worried about when I entered the kitchen of Alinea this last Friday, and, I must say, I hate it when I am right.
Walking around Alinea is an awe inspiring event, it is a near Mecca in the food world: its nearly unfathomable ability to blend into its surroundings in the Lincoln Park district of Chicago does give it an air of mystery and of reverence; both of which would be squashed by the end of my trial there. Upon entering the back of the kitchen I met the chef de cuisine who told me simply, with a slight huff and indignation in his breath, that I needed to go in the basement and there I could “get set up.” I, still, am unsure what he meant by that and, by the occurrences of the following events, I might never truly know what that means.
After getting as “set up” as I could reasonably asses, I climbed the stairs and gingerly opened the door the kitchen that was rivaling Europe’s most elite, aged, and heirloom restaurants. Let me say that I have never felt my hand shake so hard. I was also anticipating something horrible to happen: I would close the door too hard and everyone would stop and stare at me (and yes, that does happen there); or I might turn the corner too quickly and stab someone with my knife that I had to carry because I was not allowed to bring my knife kit upstairs; or I would hit someone who was working furiously, knock them over, and cause a huge ruckus; really none of that happened (especially because I was warned by a friend of the first item). There was no time, though, to appreciate the grandeur of the moment as I was quickly shifted in prep mode as there were chestnuts to peel, and peel I must!
Now I knew that the prep at a place like Alinea would seem unnecessary at times (understatement) or even an abomination of what I love about cooking (still an understatement), but, as my second job pointed out, that even having an understanding that I might have those feelings or sensations did not slow their haste into my thought process. After peeling the chestnuts (that had to be done while still in the boiling water they were cooked in) I was handed a bucket filled with five gallons of coconut meat so that I may juice it. I now ask that you take a few moments to digest that last sentence.
(Pausing)
Good.
First off I could write many more pages on the intricacies of how much that statement delineates the biggest issues I have with the “great” restaurants in the world – mainly for the very simple fact that we are in Chicago, I have lived in Chicago for more than a decade, and I have NEVER seen a coconut tree growing in Chicago – rather I will continue on with the more immediate economic implications of that statement. It is so easy to open up a can of coconut milk (which was essentially what I was making) and save money, time, and way too much wear and tear on my arm (the latter is just for my sake, the two former are for the sake of the restaurant). Yes, fresh coconut milk is incomparable to the can, but the amount of money put forth to deliver said coconut to Chicago is astronomical and, honestly, a frivolous expense that has, and will continue to, undermined whatever is left of the sanctity of this industry.
Again, I do not mind doing something extra to give that certain edge to the food for quality, aesthetics, or flavor, I do not even mind doing many extra things to achieve that, but there is a line somewhere and though I am still trying to find it I know, of a certainty, that it was crossed in this moment.
That was the issues I had with just the food. The way one treats another person is really the clinching moment where I knew that this restaurant was not the one for me.
I knew, again, from the beginning that I, in their eyes, was a partial step up from garbage and whatever I knew, in regards to cooking, was irrelevant at best. That much I knew upon gingerly creeping into that kitchen. Still, that is not, nor will it ever be, an excuse for me to mistreat another human being especially when, at the end of the day, no matter how much you try, someone is still going to poop out what you just made. With that said, a level of detachment has to occur, somewhere. Yes, I am going to put my heart and soul into that food and yes, I will be upset if I or anyone makes a mistake, but STILL it is a digestible and temporary art form. You have to detach yourself and understand that once outside of your physical grasp it is no longer yours to keep, no longer something you can alter, adjust, and edit – it is a past tense attempt at perfection and what you are making right now is all you can offer to the guests.
You move on.
When someone makes a mistake, you move on. When someone is told to vacuum seal squab stock, all twelve gallons of it, and spills about five tablespoons, in my book, that is an accomplishment. In this establishment, one so grounded in perfection that it has lost the love and the wonderment of food, that accomplishment is seen more as a fault. Which is hard to digest for someone who has been noted for taking things too personally in the past.
When conversing with my friends who work or worked in restaurants I made sure they understood the effervescent and resounding air of competitiveness that sickens nearly everyone there. The analogy I made was that it is like becoming a really great high school quarterback (maybe you win state), then you go on and have a very successful college career (maybe you win the National Championship or the Heisman), just to get drafted by the Indiana Colts. Though you are excited and very nervous to be playing for a professional football team you quickly realize that to get the notoriety you, maybe, deserve or want you have to beat out Peyton Manning at his own game. Not to mention, that, for some reason, there are thirty other people all with equal or exceeding credentials to your own stellar ones, who, just so happen to be vying for the same position. The kicker in all of this is that only the top ten quarterbacks on the team get paid, and only three backups get a livable wage. So you kick, and scratch, and claw, and bite until one day you are getting paid very well just to realize that whatever dignity, self respect, and personal morality has turned into indignation and self depravity of the utmost regard. Nothing, like I said earlier, is worth that.
I will always be a proponent of the chase for perfection – I try to live it – but there is a price to pay for it as well. When one gets to the level that Alinea is at you have to make clear and concise sacrifices for what you want. Usually it is a social life, family, friends, and things of that nature. In the realm of consciousness that I follow those things are not things, they are the fabric of life; cooking is a glorified hobby that I can get paid doing. I love it to death, I have lost a lot of good and bad things in my life pursuing a career in this field. But, still, I have my sanctity, I have balance. I want a family and I want a great restaurant, both of those things I know I will get with a lot of hard work and, still, some sacrifice. But I will get them, I just will not go about it the way I have been told I should go about it.
I am a clear case of that: go to one of the premier schools and work at the best restaurant in the country; easy way to move up the ladder, quickly. Right?
I must admit that I did not want to go to school, rather go the route of being a stagiaire at many great restaurants, getting little to no pay, until one day having a great enough repertoire to work my way up in a great restaurant then open my own. Why did I think that? Well, that’s how the system is built, that is how it is done, and that is how it will always be done. Well, maybe.
After much convincing from my parents, I decided to go to Johnson & Wales University over the Culinary Institute of America (or the CIA) – the Yale versus Harvard of cooking schools. Johnson & Wales plays the role of Yale in this one: always great, but never the best and, therefore, getting pooped on from our bosses who probably went to the CIA. Many graduates of the CIA went the route of staging in places before becoming a great chef; I too wanted to follow that route – even if a small voice in my head said otherwise.
This last weekend I staged at Alinea, the best restaurant in this country, nay, continent, nay, hemisphere. Before going I had talked to a good friend of mine about his experiences at the French Laundry, the restaurant that was of the same status Alinea is now. He, after four months of being a kitchen bitch, despised it and, with all his talents, is on the ropes as to whether or not he wants to continue cooking. Though him and I approach food differently, we have very parallel ideals about our mentality approaching a kitchen and cooking as a whole. It boils down to, very simply, “Here’s a valium, now relax!”
In the weeks and months prior to going to Alinea I had begun to imagine my life in a kitchen as a rebuttal or a retort to the ways of how a kitchen should look like. Rather than spending countless hours picking herbs, juicing fruit, or dicing onions I would assemble a team of likeminded cooks and open a restaurant: a half dozen or so trustworthy, respectable cooks who could push each other, creatively, without an air of competitiveness. That last word is the word I was probably most worried about when I entered the kitchen of Alinea this last Friday, and, I must say, I hate it when I am right.
Walking around Alinea is an awe inspiring event, it is a near Mecca in the food world: its nearly unfathomable ability to blend into its surroundings in the Lincoln Park district of Chicago does give it an air of mystery and of reverence; both of which would be squashed by the end of my trial there. Upon entering the back of the kitchen I met the chef de cuisine who told me simply, with a slight huff and indignation in his breath, that I needed to go in the basement and there I could “get set up.” I, still, am unsure what he meant by that and, by the occurrences of the following events, I might never truly know what that means.
After getting as “set up” as I could reasonably asses, I climbed the stairs and gingerly opened the door the kitchen that was rivaling Europe’s most elite, aged, and heirloom restaurants. Let me say that I have never felt my hand shake so hard. I was also anticipating something horrible to happen: I would close the door too hard and everyone would stop and stare at me (and yes, that does happen there); or I might turn the corner too quickly and stab someone with my knife that I had to carry because I was not allowed to bring my knife kit upstairs; or I would hit someone who was working furiously, knock them over, and cause a huge ruckus; really none of that happened (especially because I was warned by a friend of the first item). There was no time, though, to appreciate the grandeur of the moment as I was quickly shifted in prep mode as there were chestnuts to peel, and peel I must!
Now I knew that the prep at a place like Alinea would seem unnecessary at times (understatement) or even an abomination of what I love about cooking (still an understatement), but, as my second job pointed out, that even having an understanding that I might have those feelings or sensations did not slow their haste into my thought process. After peeling the chestnuts (that had to be done while still in the boiling water they were cooked in) I was handed a bucket filled with five gallons of coconut meat so that I may juice it. I now ask that you take a few moments to digest that last sentence.
(Pausing)
Good.
First off I could write many more pages on the intricacies of how much that statement delineates the biggest issues I have with the “great” restaurants in the world – mainly for the very simple fact that we are in Chicago, I have lived in Chicago for more than a decade, and I have NEVER seen a coconut tree growing in Chicago – rather I will continue on with the more immediate economic implications of that statement. It is so easy to open up a can of coconut milk (which was essentially what I was making) and save money, time, and way too much wear and tear on my arm (the latter is just for my sake, the two former are for the sake of the restaurant). Yes, fresh coconut milk is incomparable to the can, but the amount of money put forth to deliver said coconut to Chicago is astronomical and, honestly, a frivolous expense that has, and will continue to, undermined whatever is left of the sanctity of this industry.
Again, I do not mind doing something extra to give that certain edge to the food for quality, aesthetics, or flavor, I do not even mind doing many extra things to achieve that, but there is a line somewhere and though I am still trying to find it I know, of a certainty, that it was crossed in this moment.
That was the issues I had with just the food. The way one treats another person is really the clinching moment where I knew that this restaurant was not the one for me.
I knew, again, from the beginning that I, in their eyes, was a partial step up from garbage and whatever I knew, in regards to cooking, was irrelevant at best. That much I knew upon gingerly creeping into that kitchen. Still, that is not, nor will it ever be, an excuse for me to mistreat another human being especially when, at the end of the day, no matter how much you try, someone is still going to poop out what you just made. With that said, a level of detachment has to occur, somewhere. Yes, I am going to put my heart and soul into that food and yes, I will be upset if I or anyone makes a mistake, but STILL it is a digestible and temporary art form. You have to detach yourself and understand that once outside of your physical grasp it is no longer yours to keep, no longer something you can alter, adjust, and edit – it is a past tense attempt at perfection and what you are making right now is all you can offer to the guests.
You move on.
When someone makes a mistake, you move on. When someone is told to vacuum seal squab stock, all twelve gallons of it, and spills about five tablespoons, in my book, that is an accomplishment. In this establishment, one so grounded in perfection that it has lost the love and the wonderment of food, that accomplishment is seen more as a fault. Which is hard to digest for someone who has been noted for taking things too personally in the past.
When conversing with my friends who work or worked in restaurants I made sure they understood the effervescent and resounding air of competitiveness that sickens nearly everyone there. The analogy I made was that it is like becoming a really great high school quarterback (maybe you win state), then you go on and have a very successful college career (maybe you win the National Championship or the Heisman), just to get drafted by the Indiana Colts. Though you are excited and very nervous to be playing for a professional football team you quickly realize that to get the notoriety you, maybe, deserve or want you have to beat out Peyton Manning at his own game. Not to mention, that, for some reason, there are thirty other people all with equal or exceeding credentials to your own stellar ones, who, just so happen to be vying for the same position. The kicker in all of this is that only the top ten quarterbacks on the team get paid, and only three backups get a livable wage. So you kick, and scratch, and claw, and bite until one day you are getting paid very well just to realize that whatever dignity, self respect, and personal morality has turned into indignation and self depravity of the utmost regard. Nothing, like I said earlier, is worth that.
I will always be a proponent of the chase for perfection – I try to live it – but there is a price to pay for it as well. When one gets to the level that Alinea is at you have to make clear and concise sacrifices for what you want. Usually it is a social life, family, friends, and things of that nature. In the realm of consciousness that I follow those things are not things, they are the fabric of life; cooking is a glorified hobby that I can get paid doing. I love it to death, I have lost a lot of good and bad things in my life pursuing a career in this field. But, still, I have my sanctity, I have balance. I want a family and I want a great restaurant, both of those things I know I will get with a lot of hard work and, still, some sacrifice. But I will get them, I just will not go about it the way I have been told I should go about it.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)